Here they are after the wash. I soaked them twice.

I then took the lining and made a circle pattern out of it. I decided to replace the lining in some scraps of red silk I had.
To give a bit more room to the brocade, and so I wouldnt be stitching it to the metal again, I added caps of black wool to the tops. The bunching in the pocket I did with the replacement lining by basting the two stitched lines and pulling them together. Worked like a charm.
I then put good sides together and carefully basted by hand the lining to the brocade, turing it right side out, and giving it a good steaming.