Grading a pattern is really scaling a pattern up or down in order to adjust it for multiple sizes. Industries use this technique, first by making a pattern in a standard proportioned size using a model, and then adjusting the size for others in even calculated measurements. This is generally how we get S M L XL XXL sizing. Many plus size clothing companies size from plus size models and grade accordingly. This offers a better fit for plus size wearers instead of grading to plus from a straight size.

A true way to see grading is on modern patterns, where they build multiple sizes in one pattern. You see where they scale armholes, the chest, the neck and shoulders; all crucial areas for getting a great fit. Those patterns are great learning tools.

Now, you may notice that you get something and it fits great around the a waist, but the bust is too big, or the chest is fine, but the arms are too tight, etc. Grading is a standard, not precise to the wearer, cause we are all different.

So, when I speak of grading, I mean getting a garment to fit you, the wearer, the way you want it.

Grading/sizing/adjusting, whatever you want to call is not that hard. For me, because I rarely can go by standards for sizing, I look at the measurements that the pattern gives, and add accordingly.

There have been patterns where I have had to completely redraft the pattern (most of the time) so, when I get a pattern that is close to my size it is a real treat. That means I rarely have to do a mock up, and I don't have to worry about fitting the shoulders and neck so much. This pattern, the Marian Martin 9164, is a vintage size 24 1/2 with a seam allowance of 1/2". On this pattern that's a 44" bust, a 39" waist, and 47" hip. My measurements are 48" 38" 49 1/2", so I'm real close on this one! Most vintage patters were only one size per pattern. It was expected of a woman to know how to adjust the pattern accordingly because sewing was so common place. Now for this dress, because its casual, Im going to make it about 49" by 40" by 52". I use different measurements for different garments. Also, I do measurements depending on the foundation garments I am wearing. A suit fits different than a day dress, so my measurements of how I want it to fit may be different too. I think it also depends on the era your figure was in vogue. Im more of an hourglass figure, so 50s styles work better for me, but I like 30s and 40s, so I may put more give in the waist, for a boxier look.